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‘Vegan’ collagen brands challenged on terminology

Consumer demand for “vegan” collagen alternatives is booming, but products that use misleading terminology risk being called out.

It seems that consumers have bought into the concept of so-called vegan collagen in a big way. The global market for the ingredient was estimated at $279.2 million in 2023 and is projected to reach $2,028.6 million by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 36.4%.

The appeal of these collagen analogues is that they take away the ethical dilemmas associated with animal-derived collagen.

“Most collagen is sourced from animals - bovine, marine, or porcine – raising growing concerns around ethics, traceability, and environmental impact,” said Michelle Teodoro, global food science analyst at Mintel.

“Marine collagen faces questions about overfishing, while collagen with bovine sources can clash with cultural or religious preferences. As a result, more consumers are seeking animal-free, low-impact alternatives.”

Creating confusion

However, they are giving rise to a new set of ethical dilemmas around the way in which they are marketed and labelled.

These problems stem from the use of the term “collagen” which, according to the Brussels-based European Chemical Industry Council (Cefic), is a misnomer.

“Any product labelled as ‘vegan collagen’ is misleading consumers because collagen does not exist in the plant kingdom. Collagen is an animal-derived ingredient, clearly defined in EU Regulation No 853/2004," Line Jensen, the forum’s sector group manager for specialty chemicals, told this publication.

“Botanical collagen” and “phyto-collagen” are among other misleading names being used by the industry, she said – and plant-based imposters are proliferating in all B2C channels.

She added: “We are observing an increasing number of products advertised and labelled as vegan/plant collagen in Europe. This can be seen at food and food supplement fairs and exhibitions, on social media, and on products on sale online and in shops.”

She said that the Gelatine Manufacturers of Europe (GME) – a sector group of Cefic – has repeatedly contacted companies who market “plant-based” or “vegan” collagen products, and that some have adjusted their communication.

Biomimicry and amino acid matching

There, are, however, many brands that are using a biomimetic or amino acid-matched formulation but labelling it as collagen. Read on for some examples.

Feel claims that its Pro Collagen is “the world’s first vegan collagen”. The active ingredient in its product is VeCollal – a collagen alternative built on biomimicry.

Revive is another biomimetic product, providing the exact 21 amino acids found in human type 1 collagen. This brand claims to be “the world’s first clinically proven vegan collagen”.

ZENii’s Beauty Glow Vegan Collagen also has an amino acid profile that is said to perfectly match the structure of natural type 1 collagen. It combines these essential amino acids with “beauty-enhancing ingredients” such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, biotin (vitamin B7), methylsulfonylmethane (MSM), and silica.

Rheal’s Plant Collagen is a complex of pea protein, lucuma, pink pitaya, acerola, bamboo silica, and Astrion – a patented cosmeceutical ingredient derived from extracts of Astragalus membranaceus (astragalus root) and Centella asiatica.

Why does this matter?

The problem, according to Cifec, is that the health-supporting benefits of collagen peptides are based on the specific composition of collagen fragments when taken orally.

The mislabelling of collagen alternatives, builders, or boosters is leading to misinformation for consumers, who might think they are getting something they are not.

“Since a mix of single amino acids of diverse origin does not comply with the EU definition of collagen, it creates confusion for consumers,” said Jensen.

Plant-based products challenged by the courts

There are signs that the use of the term “collagen” for plant-based products is starting to be challenged.

“Court rulings based on existing legislation have already provided evidence that ‘vegan/plant collagen’ is misleading and that products labelled as such shall not be marketed in Europe,” said Jensen.

In June, the Berlin Higher Regional Court ruled that marketing a vegan ingredient as “plant collagen” is misleading, because collagen is defined by law as an animal-derived substance.

And in October 2024, a ruling by the European Court of Justice confirmed that legally protected animal product names cannot be used for vegan alternatives.

Collagen labelling: More protection needed

However, Jensen said that the fact an increasing number of products are being labelled as “vegan/plant collagen” could indicate that current legislation might not be clear enough, adding that protection of the term “collagen” – in the same way that “milk” is protected against non-dairy substitutes – would improve the situation.

“To ensure transparent and adequate information in accordance with the food information regulation (EU) 2011/1169), we are supporting the initiative that ingredient names which are legally defined EU regulations (like collagen, gelatine, and meat) shall only be used for products complying with the definition,” she added.

Will molecular farming muddy the issue?

With advancements in molecular farming and precision fermentation, in future, the labelling of collagen products could become even more complex.

“Collagen made through precision fermentation, which produces bio-identical collagen without animals, is gaining attention for its sustainability and consistency,” said Mintel’s Teodoro.

Examples include LeafyColl, which produces animal-free, human-identical collagen from genetically modified plants, and Californian biotech startup Geltor, which is precision-fermenting microbes to produce a “biodesigned collagen polypeptide”.

As yet, however, neither of these products are authorised for use in foods or supplements in Europe.